Current restoration work: '54 Oval-Beetle Sliding-Ragtop, '55 Oval-Beetle Sliding-Ragtop, '56 Oval-Beetle Sliding-Ragtop, '59 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Custom, '69 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Custom, '69 Beetle Sedan, '70 Karmann Ghia Cabrio, '74 1303 Sedan, '76 1303 Cabriolet,

1969 Beetle in Toga White " Lady Bug "
~ 1969 Beetle Sedan ~
REVOLKSREVOLKS reVOLKS completed this stock-looking beauty recently.
~ The Project Plan ~

The owner of this Beetle is no stranger to classic Vdubs. This is the second vehicle we have completed for her in recent years. The first being another lovely from the 60's a bit further down the [ Restorations ] page called [ Georgetta ] which is a 1968 Karmann Ghia Coupe.
This owner likes her classics to remain classic and true to form as they were produced "back in the day".
Her hubby is also an avid vintage automobile guy who's tastes run more to American trucks but together they have a great collection of 50's and 60's rides.

Lady Bug was a serendipidous find a few years back and it was brought into reVOLKS for a quick peak directly after it was rescued from it's previously barn-sheltered life in the Ozarks near our shop.
Back then it had been basically "driven into the barn and parked" where this lucky owner spotted it and made the deal. During it's first visit to our shop we reviewed it's over-all health and did some basic maintenance including some replacement window seals to stop water from entering the cabin now that it lived outside in "the real world". Also the headliner was replaced since it was torn and falling out in a few places. Other than this, we advised the owner to "Drive this car!" and without hesitation she did :) Almost daily too!

However, time and use began to get the better of it and last year the owner decided to have it restored. She wanted to rid it of the "recent" (we're talking decades ago) paint job that appeared to have been applied with a roller-brush :( and to freshen-up the engine that was starting to get a bit more selective as to it's operational hours.

So, our job directive was:
Make it look and run like it did almost 40 years ago!
So we got on the job...


'69 Beetle begins resto
Lady sings the blues no more...

stripping-down shell
After removing the bumpers, fenders and running boards

So the first thing is to begin removing the various bolt-on parts and get down to the basic body shell to see what we're working with and determine how to proceed with THIS Vdub.

As you can see, in these two pics, the body looks pretty good even if the paint was applied with a roller-brush. However, years of country living in the Ozarks had accumulated a fair amount of road tar and "pea gravel" that was stuck to all inner fender surfaces and lower sections so we decided the body would be in need of a little media blasting. This would be to include all four fenders since they weighed nearly twice the original weight due to tar and stones well fixed to their inner surfaces.
We chose to have only the "lower" 1/3 of the body media blasted as the body was clean above this. The "roll-on" paint sanded off quite easily revealing the stock-original paint below which was still very stable but upon closer inspection of the lower 1/3 we saw signs...


Lower quarter rusting
Some lower quarter rusting is going on...

Rusted captive fender nuts
Inner fender captive nuts rusted-out

Damaged rear apron cracking
Rear apron cracks and damage

Front apron rusting/damage
Front apron rusting from prior damage

Well, I guess it should be expected...
After years of service on country roads the tar and stones that became trapped in the inner fender regions also trapped water and this lead to our worst enemy - rusting :(
On the brighter-side, this is not major rusting for such a vehicle.

The front and rear aprons also suffered from some damage from most likely parking lot "Oooops!" given that they both had cracks in the panel edges and the associated rusting caused by insufficient preparation before body work was previously performed to these spots.
In case you ever think you want to use lots of body filler on the rear apron to fix a dent or worse crack - DON'T. It just won't last there. The rear apron is subjected to all the engine heat and even worse all the exhaust heat and heat is body filler's worst nightmare. Unless you are prepared to work molten lead as a body filler that is. So dents in the rear apron must be fixed properly by removing them not by covering them up with polymer-based body fillers.

The rest that is visible now are typical signs of what may be further discovered after media blasting is completed and in some ways was actually reassuring as we knew for certain that the best course of action was to media blast only the lower 1/3 to cleans the body of any unseen rusting and save the rest from the mess.
So off it went to be media blasted.


Tomb-stone tail light housings
"Tomb-stone" tail light housings post media blasting

Rear fenders media blasted
Rear fenders after media blasting looked OK

Media blasted front fenders begin body working
Work starts on media blasted front fenders

Front quarter, post media blasting
Front-Left quarter after media blasting

PS front quarter, post media blast
Front-right quarter, post media blast

Rear quarter - more revealed
Extent of damage revealed in rear quarters

No doors? Why?
Where's the doors? Not media blasted?
AIR cooled?
Is this what they mean by "AIR cooled"?
Engine Bay/Apron
Engine Bay stripped

Well, now you know why they say "Beauty is only skin deep".

The rear tail light housings, called "Tomb-stone" tail lights due to their shape were media blasted along with their fenders because the securing fasteners were essentially glued to the fenders with road tar and stones. This allowed these light housings to be easily removed later and left only minor spotting on the fenders where their rubber seals covered the rear fenders.
The rear fenders had some relatively minor dents which show some old body filler still attached after media blasting. The reason why the old body filler was not blasted off is simple:
We request that our media blaster STOP when he finds any body filler build-up and skip over that space if it's on an "open" panel. Why? You ask. Well, the media blasting will tend to heat-up the panel when it's focused for extended periods of time on the same spot. The result can often be worse warping to the panel (from media blasting heat build-up) than what the body filler may be covering. So the bondo stayed even though the rest of the panel was blasted clean.
In the last three quarter panel pictures we can see the extent of the previously visible rusting was more than met the eye through the paint and after returning from media blasting we were able to see clearly just how much.
The good news is that the areas of concern before remained the only areas of concern afterwards. There was some minor skin perforation from rusting in the two front quarters but these were easy to repair and were expected based upon what we knew beforehand. The back quarters would be more involved but only because of their locations at the aft-end of the heater channels. These are just difficult spaces to work in and are comprised of complex angles so sectional replacement work and welding would not be easy.
Also seen here is the road wheels were also media blasted. This is our normal process since the wheels are almost always nasty with rusting either behind or on their face and just plain difficult to get rid of with such tight seams.

In the third-last over-all picture you can notice if you look closely that the doors were not on the car during media blasting. Why is that?
Well, the not so obvious answer is because we removed the doors prior to media blasting and masked-off the openings with plywood. This is done for a few reasons. The first is you must remove all the glass from the doors so it doesn't get "etched" by flying media and also because I wanted all the doors to be "jammed" but not the doors open fields across the middle. Why? The doors have relativey thin metal skins and are easily warped during media blasting and this would lead to even more body working but still the door jams were very crusty with minor surface rusting along the window openings and around the door seal areas. Thus, it's easier and better to let the media blaster work the edges only to clean-up the hard-to-reach areas.
If you look closely at the door just in front and beyond the nose of the car you will see it is still white through it's middle panel but all around has been media blasted. Simple and effective :)
The last two pictures show the body being cleaned of the media blasting debris that seems to get into every nook-n-cranny on the car. Compressed air works wonders to get all the "goo" out of the car. Hey! Is that what they mean by "air cooled"? :)
Finally, the engine bay was cleaned-out. The old insulation was deteriorated and falling apart and was to be replaced anyway. Good time to check-out all the wire loom that runs inside the engine bay too.


Engine Case torn-down
Engine case torn down.

'Boxer' Engine :)
Is this a "Boxer" Engine?

Well not too surprisingly, the engine was in need of an over-haul.
The engine was torn-down to the case as shown in the picture at left and all the parts were put into boxes for inspection and or re-use later. This engine was actually in good shape over-all but was a high miler' so it was going to be rebuilt to 1600cc with the usually expected replacement parts - pistons/cylinders, heads, camshaft, lifters, oil pump and all bearings. It also needed a new distributor as the old vacuum unit finally gave-up the ghost.
Ultimately, it will return to stock looking form save for perhaps the 009 dizzy to be used.

Cure for rusted sections
Cure for rust - Replace it!

Front inner fender perforation
Inner fender rust perforations

Front inner fender perforation
Inner fender rusting

Replaced captive fender nuts
Captive fender nut replacement

Fender skins torn
Torn fender lips

Cleaned-up metal working
Metal working cleaned-up
These pics show some of the metal replacements that were in order to rid Lady Bug of any rust perforation. These were actually not too bad considering the age of the vehicle. Pretty typical spaces to find rust in the venerable Beetle body.
As this is normal to find, it was a matter of extracting the rusted areas and then fabricating replacement steel sections.
Also shown is the rear fender captive nut replacement process. It's not unusual to find a few of the captive fender nuts have rusted-out or broken-free over the years. So welding-in new hardware is often needed so the fenders can be re-mounted later.
It's also common to find the fender lips have been torn or cracked. This happens because they are basically like large air-sails catching everything and over years of operation they will stress-fracture by themselves, even when not "helped" by accidental impacts.
Last picture shows some of the metal working after "clean-up" is done. This is basically grinding the welds smooth to the skin so that later body working can commence. Often the metal might sit "bare" for an unknown period of time and so the bare steel sections will be treated with a rust inhibitor. You will notice this in the pictures that follow as the metal will appear as "bluish" to black in color.

Body working begins...
Body working begins...
After straightening and welding...
The fenders straightened and welded...body working begins
Test fitting panels during body working
Test fitting panels during body work phase
Body work and test fit
More body work & test fitting
Rear fender/apron/fender alignment check
Rear panel alignment checking
The next phase after all the metal working is completed is the body working. This is done over a period of time as you never want to plaster-on body filler all at once. There should only be a need of minor amounts in the first place and it should be applied thin and make use of repeat applications where needed.
Also shown here is the alignment checking of various panels as they are being worked on. This helps ensure you get nice fitting panels when everything goes back together later after it's been painted.

Gettin' ready for primer...
Masking-off the body...
More masking...
More masking...
Rust inhibitor coating on steel
Rust inhibitor coating on steel
Tapping captive nuts in body
Tapping captive nuts in body
More masking to prep for priming
Gettin' ready for primer coat
After what might seem like forever, the body is finally close enough to warrant being sprayed with a primer coat. So the car must be masked-off to keep the inside clean and free of over-spray. So every opening, no matter how small or large must be masked off. The last opening to mask off is the driver door opening as you need access to steer the body into the paint booth.
The last pictures show some of the bare steel after the rust inhibitor has been applied and it's dried. Usually to a darker bluish color or even a sorta' dusty white phosphate looking appearance is normal.
Just before the body is rolled into the booth for primer coating all of the captive nuts in the body are checked and their threads are tapped clean. This ensure you don't "find" a jammed nut or broken bolt later that was missed AFTER you have painted :(

Epoxy primer coating applied
Epoxy primer coating applied
Epoxy primer coating applied
Fresh epoxy primer coating
Block sanding continues...
Block sanding continues...
Block sanding results
Results of block sanding primer coat
Wow! It's always amazing to see the Vdub after it's been coated in one color after so many hours/days/months of seeing it multi-colored :)
Here the body rolled out of the booth after being liberally coated in epoxy primer. This primer is heavy and thick and is an awesome rust preventer due to it's polymer-based construction.
After the epoxy primer was dried and the body rolled out of the booth it was time to start the block sanding all over again. You will get to thinking that block sanding will never end with vintage automobile restoration. It's definitely a job for the patient person since it involves hour of mind-numbing sanding with a hard block and finer sandpaper. Here the body was being blocked with 320 grit paper.
The beauty of this epoxy primer is the color-change that occurs from freshly sprayed to block sanded surface. This color change is super beneficial since it helps act as a "guide coat" to show you any minor surface imperfections.

More panels to primer and block
More panels to prime and block

More panels to primer and block
More panels to prime and block

More panels to primer and block
More panels to prime and block

More panels to primer and block
More panels to prime and block
Yeah, all the primer coating and block sanding has to be carried out on the whole car and that includes all the panels you "bolt on" later. They require just as much attention as the body does and in some cases such as the fenders are much more involved because they tend to have more complex curves and body lines to deal with. All of which must be done with smaller blocks and or by hand alone... Definitely not for the faint of heart or person lacking in patience... :)

The doors....enough said?
The doors. Enough said?

The doors....enough said?
The doors. Enough said?

The doors....enough said?
The doors. Enough said?

The doors....enough said?
The doors. Enough said?

The doors....enough said?
The doors. Enough said?

So the doors... Yeah. They needed some body work too. Unfortunately, they had some minor pin-hole rusting and about 30 years of other people's doors denting into them. The problem for the door body worker is the door's skin is like working on a drum head. It gives with minor pressure making body working and block sanding very hard to do.
Here we see a sequence of door body working pictures and even some stages where "guide coating" is being used to check for level-ness (is that a new word?).
More patience required here folks. This is a project for the long hazy days of summer when you want to stay in the shade and have nothing to do with your next 72 hours or more :)

Blocked-out and ready for paint?
Blocked out...enough?

Door primed and blocked
The doors are finally ready too

Rolled into the paint booth
Ready for paint...Finally!

Toga White ... once again
Toga White. Once again :)

So after what will seem like "forever" you will finally be finished with your block sanding. In the case of Lady Bug here, it really wasn't that bad.
The first picture shows that some additional touch-up primer coating was applied over a few areas that needed a bit more attention. These areas were low and had a subsequent body working phase applied and thus were recoated in primer afterwards.
Then the time is finally near. After hours of blocking the body is ready to go back into the paint booth for a new shine :)
After years of living under a "rolled-on" paint job akin to your home's ceiling Lady Bug was once again returned to her original color of Toga White. Looks great too. Nice color for the era she comes from.

Some Assembly Required...
Some Assembly Required...

Headliner installation
Headliner installation

Headliner installation
Headliner installation

Fender welting
Fender welting

Brakes and suspension worked over
Brakes and suspension worked over

Lighting and body seals
Lighting and body seals

Body trim
Body Trim

Road wheels painted
Road wheels painted

Is it ready to drive yet?
Is it ready to drive yet?

There's nothing quite like the assembly stage of a restoration job.
Everyone loves this phase no matter what they specialize in or how long they've been in this business. Putting "humpty" back together brings smiles and fun to everyone.
You might think it akin to building a giant-sized jigsaw puzzle since all the original parts must be identified, cleaned, assessed for re-useability and then the place on the car must be found and it fitted.
The pictures speak for themselves.
The stock, original road wheels were media blasted, primed and painted in the stock silver color too. After some mechanical work, suspension and brake components were coated in POR-15 and the wheels were re-mounted. Looks great doesn't it?!

Transaxle mounts replaced
Transaxle mounts replaced

Rolling window seals and vents
Rolling window seals and vents

Engine case machined and cleaning
Cleaning a freshly machined engine case

Running boards and bumpers
Running boards and bumpers

Is it ready to drive yet????
Is it ready to drive now????

Engine built and test run
Engine built and test run

Engine installed
Engine installed

Dash finished
Dash finished

Interior finished
Interior finished

Let's take a drive!
Daily Driver, ready to go :)

The final push to complete the car follows.
These areas are skill specific usually and include engine building, electrical wiring, window installations and interior finishing.
While we have specific persons for these areas it is still usually done one at a time since often two people cannot work on the car at the same time like with previous assembly work.
Again, the pictures speak volumes to the beauty of this classic Vdub.
In the right setting you feel like a youngster again staring at a new car on a dealer lot circa 1969 - the end of an era for certain!
Lady Bug drove home a happy camper looking and feeling like she did 30 plus years ago :)
[ Want your Classic Vdub restored? ]