Current restorations: '71 KG Cabrio, '70->69 KG Cabrio, '69 KG Cabrio, '60 KG Cabrio, '59 Beetle Sedan, '73 412, '74 SB, '71 KG Cabrio, '63 Notchback, '71 Bus, 74 SB Cabrio, 64 Notchback

" Molly "
~ Custom Karmann Ghia Cabrio ~
SOLD
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Molly at her first auto show in Arizona
[ Happy Owner @ Auto Show ]
Custom Karmann Ghia Cabriolet - 'Molly'


This Ghia has had further upgrades not shown here: an AC System and performance engine parts including case breather and extra capacity oil sump :)
Another restoration by reVOLKS. This Karmann Ghia Cabrio was completed in Jan.2002. Having undergone a full body-off, semi-custom restoration. It is another fine example of our 'daily driver' restorations. 'Molly' as the owner has named her, is now living the life in sunny, warm Arizona and we're told is expecting to attend as many shows as she can.

~ The Project Plan ~

This '70 cabrio was changed to a '69 including tail lights, back-up lights, bumper and front turn signals.
The Arizona owner also chose a 1776cc, dual port engine along with mild custom feature of a nice clean color-matched dash, canvas top and luxury, custom interior by reVOLKS. The paint color chosen for this lovely Ghia is an original 1987 Vdub blue called 'Dove Blue Metalic'.

The Dash after media blasting. The tail light before 60's replacements
These pics show the body after media blasting was finished. Also a view of the larger 1970 tail light fender openings.
The original chassis after the body came off Pans on their way off Inside view of pans nearly off The pans completely removed, tunnel lip cleaned
Some of the initial chassis work. Original pans were removed to get back to a clean tunnel lip for welding in the new pans. You must keep the seat rails, seat belt anchors, jacking reinforcements and the pedal brace nut which are not included with new Ghia pans.
Shotgun blast? Destroyed swage line Destroyed swage panel removed Destroyed swage doner panel tack-welded in. Destroyed swage line panel replaced No that's not tin foil. It's ghia sheet metal custom fabricated steel section replacement
These pics are of hidden damage that appeared after media blasting.
The area over the passenger, front fender well took hours to carefully reshape with hammer & dolly! Driver's side swage line was flatened and needed to be replaced entirely. Crumpled rear apron where the original repair was horrid! So much bondo, the body had lost all curves & shape making original bumper impossible to bolt in. The blackened area to the left the "tin foil" is the replaced section where sheet metal was welded in and undercarriage supports were fabricated.
This section is about to be welded closed for 60's style signal lamps 1970 tail light removed for trial fitting of 60's tail light Measuring to get correct placement of 60's tail light installation Is Molly a '69 or '70 Ghia? Look how much further the 60's light sticks out compared to the 70's.... This completes Molly's rear-half repairs and custom work.
Next, pics of the work to revert to earlier tail lights.
The process is relatively easy. Just measure twice and cut once! :)
Molly, ready to go to wet sanding before painting. Molly is being wet sanded. Molly is being wet sanded. Molly is ready for painting now. Molly is ready for painting now.
Next, Molly is finished being smoothed and soothed and now wearing a coat of primer you see the body after many hours of block sanding (a tedious and long process to be sure!). The results are worth it. Nice and straight. A few pics of the body show it being wet sanded in the booth. Wet sanding is done with 600-1200 grit wet/dry paper which yeilds an ultra smooth surface. Once thoroughly dried it is time for painting.
Disc brakes installed on chassis painted in POR-15-gray. Drum brakes installed. Nearing completion. Just need steering components. Completed chassis. Next the pans. Completed chassis. Pans, steering & suspension installed. Completed chassis. Pans, steering & suspension installed.
Molly's chassis is shown here being completed. After media blasting the chassis was coated in POR-15 in gray. This will look great with the whole color scheme chosen and really brightens this area of the car up. The suspension is replaced and new brakes are installed. The final steps show the steering components installed. The pans are in place, the brake lines run. The steering geometry is set and she's pretty much ready to rejoin the "better half" now.
Body Painted & cleared twice. Rub-down & third clear next. Body Painted & cleared twice. Rub-down & third clear next. Body Painted & cleared twice. Rub-down & third clear next. Look at the reflection in that paint!
Some pics of the body just after it was painted and clear coated twice. At this point the body is rubbed down and then a final clear coat is applied. This produces a nice deep shine and ultra smooth reflection.
Just look at the outdoor picture closely...Amazing reflection! The result of mui elbo grease during color sanding in-between 2nd and 3rd clear coats.
Loren & Nadine begin wiring Molly. Body wiring in progress, chassis join up front. Body wiring in progress, chassis join up front.
Pictures show Loren and Nadine during the rewiring job. Not a task for the faint of heart! In one picture you can see Molly's chassis up in the air in front of the body.
Body being readied to rejoin chassis. Chassis ready to rejoin body. Lowering body onto chassis. Body on Chassis. Chassis under Body.
Now pics of the body and chassis as they are rejoined finally!
The first pic shows Molly with the rolling rack below and the car lift above ready for lift off. The body is unbolted from the rolling rack, lifted into the air and the chassis is rolled under and aligned. The car lift is then lowered slowly to gently place the body back on the chassis in the following pics. Check out the 3rd pic. All you folks that dared to dream of an "off road Ghia"... this is what it would look like with a 6 inch lift kit installed :)
Engine Installed after 1 Hour Run. Dash wired and finished.
The next block of pics shows completion of the dash wiring and gauge installations along with the stock radio. Also shown here is the engine during installation and wiring into the body.
Carpet installation in progress. Canvas bound oatmeal carpet selected to match interior. Zack installs interior insulation for every panel.
These are some pics of the interior. You can see the initial carpet installation underway.
Also you'll see the restored steering wheel and gauges installed.
Finally, you see Zach installing the panel insulation, here in the doors, but throughout the cabin too.
Ready to install rear bumper. First corner blade section mounted. Second corner blade section mounted. Center blade section mounted. Over-riders & middle towel bar mounted. The next five pics are of the rear bumper installation.
This is one area, that I thought some folks would like to see done, since the bumper removal is probably one of the first things to happen during most restorations and one of the last things to go back on. During this time, the bumpers are disassembled into the eight parts and their two mounts. Everything is inspected, straightened, cleaned or replaced.
Once you are ready to reinstall; the easiest way to do it is piece by piece!
Don't try to build the bumper on the floor and think you will just slide it back into place as one unit. It won't happen; at least not easily and you will likely end up with a "woppy-jawed" alignment. Not to mention the potential for scraping your lovely new paint!
So look closely at these 5 pics:
1 - body ready to receive bumper. Bumper mount's captive nuts have been tapped and oiled.
2 - rubber grommets installed, the first corner blade section is first attached to the forward fender mount and then it's carefully brought up to meet the rear bumper mount and lightly secured. Don't tighten any bolts or nuts down, simply get them started enough to secure the part.
3 - The alternate side (wrap-around corner blade) is also first attached to the fender mount and then brought up to meet the bumper mount and lightly secured.
4 - the center blade is slipped in between and the 4 carriage bolts are put in position, but not tightened down. Remember the lower carriage bolt is put in reverse, with the nut down, while the top carriage bolt is put in with the nut toward the inside of the blade. This must be done this way or you won't be able to access them later during alignment.
5 - the over-riders are now attached loosely and then the center towel bar and finally out-board wrap-around bars.
Now you can review the whole bumper and begin tightening the bolts in the reverse order you installed them. This means you begin with the out-board towel bar bolts at the blade, then the carriage bolts, then the over-rider bolts, then the over-rider support bolts and finally the bumper mount bolts in the body.
Everytime you tighten down a bolt on one side, do the corresponding one on the other and then recheck your bumper's alignment. After the bumper sections are all secured well you can insert the lower bolts for the over-rider-to-body mounts. I cut a small piece of rubber to fit between these and the body to prevent the paint from being rashed.
That's it! Your bumper will have been installed the easiest way you possibly can do it.
The front bumper is not as difficult, since it doesn't wrap itself around the fenders and travel a ways. So for the front bumper all that is needed is to loosely assemble every thing including the bumper mounts to the blade and then insert them into the two bumper mount holes. Loosely install the four bumper mount bolts into the body and begin checking aligment and tightening down the carriage bolts and over-rider bolts.


Nadine & John begin cabrio roof installation. A shot of the trunk carpet installed Before the headliner, the rear bow strapping is stiched in. Cabriolet roof installation. Rear-to-main bow strap being installed. Headliner being made. The headliner - phase one installed. Canvas Top being trial fitted. Canvas roof before rear window. Canvas roof before rear window. Rear Window seal sewn in. John, Nadine & Zach fitting canvas top. John, Nadine & Zach fitting canvas top. Canvas top nearing completion. Canvas top nearing completion. Ben, Zach, Nadine & John - Finishing Cabriolet roof. Canvas roof details. Canvas roof details. Canvas roof details. Canvas roof details.


Just imagine....
You call your local convertible roof specialist. You tell'em you have a Karmann Ghia and ask "How Long?....How much?"....
If they recognize the Karmann marque and will even do it; they respond "depends...are you supplying the top..the padding kit...the headliner?.... it'll be around $1000 to $2000 and we'll be able to squeeze you in sometime next month..."

Wouldn't it be nice if there was someone that KNEW Karmann convertible tops so well they make their own?
Have I got good news for you!
Just look at the pictures to your left. reVOLKS does! :)

Those of you who have the desire to attempt a Karmann Cabriolet roof installation may want to have a peek at some of these pics.. You'll want to note how many people are involved. You may even want to notice the evening-to-night-to-morning time shift in the roll-up doors behind this Ghia.... Yeah, we do the installation from start to finish - however long it takes and we're experienced!
The final four pics here are detail shots of the canvas roof, showing some stitching and binding details. This canvas top was selected by the owner and it is simply awesome. Like it was always meant to be there!

The cabriolet roof is a marvel in design and complexity. This is one job, that even if you are energetic, enthusiastic and good at auto restoration is likely to be your undoing. The process is time consuming and attention to detail is crucial. So crucial, that in nearly every step, millimeters make the difference between success and failure. Failure can mean completely removing and trashing the top you just installed....

The basic steps:
(1) Install the convertible frame per Karmann's exacting measurements.
(2) Install frame webbing/strapping, again to Karmann's specifications.
(3) Install the Headliner in the correct bow-order.
(4) Install the padding layers in proper sequence and position.
(5) Install the top, being certain your measurements and specs are met exactly!
(6) Complete the headliner installation.
Now that was easy; wasn't it? :)
And just think, if you've had experience in this, you'll only have spent about 16+ hours and hopefully ended up with a folding roof that actually folds!
Oh, wait.... Did I forget to mention the door-window seals? Darn! I knew that went too easily.... ;)

Seriously, we have photographed and video-taped this process for both vinyl and canvas tops on the Ghia and it's the one part of Karmann Ghia restoration, you should leave to the pro's. Just be sure your local "pro" has experience with Karmann Cabriolet roof tops... Ask them specifically. You may be surprised to learn that many shops that do extensive convertible work have not or will not do a Karmann top. Experience with most convertible tops put into American autos just won't help them....



Molly's marque is distinctive to be sure! Molly's first drive Molly's first drive Molly's first drive Project delivery. Molly goes home to Arizona Posing with the folks at reVOLKS.com This Ghia is gorgeous from every angle Gorgeous Ghia Custom 'leather' door panels Happy Customer. Happy Ghia. Happy Story. Custom 'leather' interior. Custom 'leather' interior Custom Dash


Well, this is what it's all about!
The day Molly meets her happy family.
After about a half hour of cruising around Siloam Springs, Molly and her owner stopped for a few 'beauty shots' for our web site. Molly will be going to a car show in less than a week too, after some sight seeing on the way back to Arizona.

Having a boo at these pics will really tell you what it's all about - the end of a restoration and new lease on life with a gorgeous 'leather' interior and canvas top. This Ghia looks better than it did the day it was made in Germany! Now motivated by a super clean looking 1776cc engine she'll be making the scene no matter where she is!

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